3/14 Up at 5:30, taxi at 6:15 to the train station and on the train at 7:15. The original, beautiful station was destroyed in the 2010 earthquake, like so many other buildings in Talca. The ruins make the city look very poverty stricken. Lots of crumbled concrete. At exactly 7:10 the train backed up to the platform. Wow, this was an old, 2 car train, but really neat-looking. Everyone got on in 5 minutes and we were on our way. It was pretty cold on the train, of course we dressed for the warmer afternoon.
We rode through some absolutely beautiful countryside on the way to the coast. We saw: people picking the grapes at vinyards, acres and acres and acres and more acres of grapes, mountains, rivers, acres and acres as far as you could see of greenhouse frames (with and without the plastic...not sure what for). Every so often we stopped and some local guy got on with lots of crates of produce. The people already on the train jumped up to help load them. The farmer would hand them up to the train and someone would put them in a corner. Very efficient. These stops where nothing more than a dirt path from some little house along the tracks. Some had a little overhang to wait under. So "local culture". We loved it. A little more than half way, we stopped at a real station. Very small. A 15 minute break. You have to pay attention to how many minutes they say, because they mean what they say. Anyway, everyone got off, we crossed over the dirt path that crossed the tracks to the banyos. There was a "store" to buy a cup of tea. It was smaller than our bathroom at home, but big enough. The tea was perfect. Everyone gets back on the train, right on time. No waiting for anyone, they all know.
The train went really slow and after a 3 hour trip, we were there. Terry became a local and helped unload the crates. It all works so well. We walked across the street to the bus station and after a detour to the banyo (pay 200 pesos to the man in the shack, who gives you a small wad of toilet paper, then you go into the bathroom where the toilets do not have toilet seats), we got our tickets to Putu where the sand dunes were. This bus was a mini minibus. It didn't stop at bus stops but at driveways instead. Talk about a local bus. Unfortunately, we did not know that Putu did not have a main terminal like every other place we have been. I noticed that the bus was going to make a turn in the wrong direction, and asked where we were suppose to get off to get a different bus to the dunes. Seems we missed that stop. Oh well, she told us it would only be 4km to walk. It was a really nice day, so we got off. And as luck would have it, right there was a completo stand. So for 1000 pesos ($2) we had a hot dog with all the fixings, a bottle of coke and a pastry. We shared one of these specials.
With our tummies full, we started off. We had to walk along the street (their version of a highway). For some reason they had the street marked every tenth of a km. This was good for us. After about 1km you could see the sand dunes, but they looked to be about 2km off to the left. We could not find an entrance. Along the way we saw wild dill growing. The plants were about 3 to 4 ft tall and just as wide. We saw typical homesteads which were not fancy, but nice and set up so practical. We really enjoyed this walk. There was a nice breeze, lots of sunshine and we didn't break a sweat. But it was far. Terry said we were not going back without seeing the dunes.We walked a total of 5km until we came to an area without a gate. There were some plastic ribbons attached to a bush, so we went for it. Another 1 km down this dirt road, we suddenly came upon what appeared to be a run down farmyard, chickens and all. No one around. Terry and I couldn't help but think about Deliverence. Well, we could see the dunes, but there was a gate. We quickly went through and started walking up the first dune. Before we got to the top, we came across some horse hoof prints. I remembered reading you could horseback ride here.
At the top, I was in awe. I felt like we were in the Sahara, except the sand was a charcoal gray and gold color. As far as we could see , that was all you could see...huge sand dunes. The sand was super hot and got between our sandals and our feet. There was not another person anywhere. Very intimidating. You read about people getting lost in the desert. Terry had a good plan...follow the horse tracks. That's what we did until there just seemed to be no end. We noticed a red flag up on the top of a dune not too much further and decided to head towards it. If when we got there we could not see the ocean, we would turn around. So another 1 km or so we went...up, then down, then up and then down. You get the picture. When we got to the flag, you could just make out the water, so we went on. Terry kept looking back to make sure we had our bearings. Finally we got to the Pacific, but there was no way I was going to put my toes in. Such an angry, strong surf. There was about a 2 to 3 ft. drop to the water and when the waves crashed in, they were really big. I was afraid. So I started taking pictures and all of a sudden Terry says "I don't want to alarm you, but we need to get moving". Ok, that alarmed me. While I was taking pictures, no more than a couple of minutes, the fog had rolled in. When I say fog, I mean the soupy, thick kind. We could hardly see the red flag. We got moving pretty quick. We followed our tracks and to make a long story short, ended up ok. The fog did keep up with us and moved pretty far inland. That was really creepy. (No pics, I forgot the tablet)
Now, it was 5km back and since the bus sort of just dropped us off, I wasn't sure where or when we would get one back. But, about .5km from where we got off, there was a bus going all the way back to where we got off the train. It was just sitting alongside the road. No kidding. We got on and off we went. Perfect!
Back in Constituccion, we walked along the water hoping for a restaurant. This area also had earthquake damage, so no restaurants. It looked like they were rebuilding. Much of the waterfront was nothing more than steps down to small docks for the fishermen. After all, this is a fishing village. So we went to the grocery store, bought stuff for sandwiches and had a picnic. Really nice. We sat on some benches and watched several hundred pelicans dive for and eat these little fish that jumped out of the water. The pelicans did not catch them when they were out of the water, but they dove in. So cool. Then all of a sudden it all stopped. The fish jumping, and the birds eating. It lasted maybe 45 minutes in all. Nature is amazing.
We took a bus back to Talca, since the last train left at 16:30. On the bus T and I noticed we both had a blister on our toe from the hot sand. The ride back was only 1 1/2 hours. We walked back from the bus terminal in the dark, but no problem.
We stopped at an eye glass store to get T's glasses tightened. All in spanish and no charge for it. We replentished some toiletries in the farmacia, and were back home at 9:15pm. Estamos muy cansados. (Don't know the past tense...we were very tired).
3/15 We got to sleep in today since our bus to Vina del Mar does not leave until 12:20. Wonderful since B and G had a long day too yesterday. They went trekking in a park about an hour away. G said they had a good time too.
This bus ride goes through Santiago and is 5 hours long. Piece of cake. Lots of time to read and blog. Makes the ride go fast.
G knows a couple that winter in Vina del Mar. We will be staying in the same apartment building on the 12th flour. They are picking us up from the bus station. Here we will see one of the original Easter Island heads and enjoy the beach. Big area for Santiagoers to go. Also we will do a day trip to Valparasio. They have these cool, old, wooden escalators that take you from the beach area, up the cliffs, to the walled city.
More on all of this as it happens.
G's friend, Maria and her husband met us at the bus station and took us to our apartment. It is in their building. She made the reservations. So nice of her. Our apartment is tiny but really nice, just like the one in Rio. Unfortunately, the futon only sleeps one. So, T is on the floor, I am on the futon and G and B in the bed (her comfort zone is way smaller than mine...don't want any grumpy travelers). Once settled in, we went to their apartment to visit and get our bearings. She made us pisco sours with mango, some tomato and onion salsa thing, fresh rolls, etc. So nice of them. We took a walk to the grocery store for supplies. So looking forward to bacon and eggs tomorrow morning.
Saturday, March 16, 2013
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